Cocoa Cabin Socks: A Free Worsted Sock Knitting Pattern
This free worsted sock knitting pattern is a fun knitting project to cast on for new sock knitters and those looking for a cozier pair of socks in the cold months.
This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no additional cost to you. Please read my disclosure for more info.
When the weather turns cold and we venture outdoors, there are two things that excite me upon coming back inside: knitting and hot cocoa.
Knitting in a cozy nook while drinking hot cocoa always warms you up, and I wanted to knit a pair of socks perfect for that warm feeling that welcomes us back after a day in the cold!
Cable knit with elongated open cable circles and tiny neat twists, these worsted weight socks are great for beginner sock knitters and fun for any level knitter. The Cocoa Cabin Socks are knit using 9″ circular needles and double pointed needles, but you can substitute in another method you’re comfortable with. Same goes for the heel. I knit a heel flap and gusset, which is super simple. But if you like a different heel, swap it in!
The cable knit rows have a lot of repetition and the worsted weight yarn makes the project go quickly. It’s such a classic pattern for socks to wear at home in a cozy style or out and about with boots.
Check out the free worsted sock knitting pattern below to see how to knit your socks. You can also purchase the printable ad-free version HERE.
What Yarn Should You Use to Follow This Free Worsted Sock Knitting Pattern?
I designed these socks alongside another pair of socks, the Cream Cabin Socks. With the vision of hot cocoa in my mind, it was a no brainer to choose yarn the colors of cocoa and cream.
The tweedy farmhouse yarn I ended up choosing invites the nostalgia of drinking warm cups of cocoa after skating circles on the ice. The tweed flecks give these socks the perfect depth to them, bringing out the cables even more. You can find the yarn I used here.
I prefer to knit worsted socks in wool because I like something warm that really shows off the texture of the cables. However, you can knit with aran weight yarn if the gauge still matches.
You will either want to choose a 100% wool yarn or a wool/nylon blend to bring both strength and durability to the socks.
Want to learn how to knit? Check out the video below or my guide to learning how to knit here!
The cable repeat is 16 rows long, but several of most of the rows are repeats of each other. It looks complicated but you can knit while you watch TV or read a book if you are keeping track of your rows. This is a sock I enjoyed knitting while listening to Anne of Green Gables on Hoopla!
Sizing in this Free Worsted Sock Knitting Pattern
When you are choosing what size socks to knit, always measure your foot circumference, not length. I recommend choosing a size with 1-2″ of negative ease for the best fit.
The sizes are written in S(M, L) with a foot circumference of 8-9″(9-10″, 10-11″) this is free worsted sock knitting pattern.
The best thing about knitting your own socks is the customization! If you need to make your socks longer or shorter on the foot, you will add or decrease the number of cable repeats after the heel is finished.
These socks are written for women, but honestly could fit men. I typically cast on the large size for my husband and just knit the foot longer. Of course, if you’re knitting them for men you’ll need more yarn than this women’s pattern calls for.
How to Knit Worsted Weight Socks
Worsted weight socks are the lesser known socks of the knitting world. And they’re my favorite! I love the coziness of the yarn without the bulk, and how quickly they knit up.
If you’re knitting for someone expecting or as a gift knit, these are a go-to project. You will finish them in just a few days (honestly!) and in true hand-knit fashion, they’ll be unlike store-bought socks. It is really gratifying to see the cables knit up so nice and quickly all while knowing this is a project that is actually useful as well!
The Free Worsted Sock Knitting Pattern
Scroll down for the free pattern or you can purchase the ad-free printable HERE.
Materials:
- US Size 7 (4.5 mm), 9″ circular knitting needles and double pointed needles (both are the exact ones I actually use)
- 2 skeins of Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted Tweed, sample knit in “Farmhouse Heather” (50g and 110yds/skein)
- Scissors
- Cable needle (or just use one of your double pointed needles!)
- Yarn needle to weave in ends
- 2-4 stitch markers
Size:
Women’s S(M, L) with a foot circumference of 8-9″(9-10″, 10-11″).
Gauge:
Approximately 18 stitches and 26 rows in a 4″ stockinette swatch
Pattern notes:
These socks are knit with a 9″ circular needle, which is my preferred method of sock knitting. You will switch to double pointed needles to work the heels and toes. But you can use another needle or heel method that’s comfortable for you!
First we’re going to knit these socks top down, knitting the cuff first, then the leg. After knitting the heel flap and gusset, we’ll work the length of the foot. Finally, we’ll decrease stitches for the toe and close with a kitchener stitch.
You can watch my How to Knit video above to see how to cast on, knit, and bind off. I also wrote a post for beginners learning to knit! If you would like to adjust the sock’s length, keep in mind that you’ll need to increase or decrease the number of cable repeats.
Free worsted sock knitting pattern abbreviations (US) and skills:
co- cast on
k- knit
p- purl
cn- cable needle
st(s)- stitch(es)
rep- repeat
dpn- double pointed needles
BOR- beginning of round
pm- place marker
sm- slip marker
rs- right side
ws- wrong side
ssk- slip, slip, knit
ktbl- knit through back loop
sl- slip
pu- pick up
k2tog- knit 2 together as one
n1, n2, n3- needle 1, needle 2, needle 3
2/2 LC- sl2 to cn, hold in front. k2, k2 from cn
2/2 RC- sl2 to cn, hold in back. k2, k2 from cn
2/2 LPC- sl2 to cn, hold in front. p2, k2 from cn
2/2 RPC- sl2 to cn, hold in back. k2, p2 from cn
Cable pattern
This is the 16 row repeat for this free worsted sock knitting pattern that’s worked along the front of the sock. You will see this written in the pattern as *cable pattern* where you will insert the corresponding cable row.
Row 1: p2, k4, p2
Row 2: p2, 2/2 RC, p2
Row 3: p2, k4, p2
Row 4: p2, k4, p2
Row 5: p2, k4, p2
Row 6: p2, 2/2 RC, p2
Row 7: p2, k4, p2
Row 8: 2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC
Row 9: k2, p4, k2
Row 10: k2, p4, k2
Row 11: k2, p4, k2
Row 12: k2, p4, k2
Row 13: k2, p4, k2
Row 14: k2, p4, k2
Row 15: k2, p4, k2
Row 16: 2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC
Cocoa Cabin Socks: A Free Sock Knitting Pattern
CUFF
CO 36(40, 44) sts using the long-tail cast on. Then, place a beginning of round marker here and join to knit in the round. *I recommend placing a middle of round marker at 18(20, 22) now to make the split for the heel flap easier later on.
Now we’re going to begin with a simple and stretchy ribbed cuff.
Rows 1-12. *K1, p1* repeat around, slipping middle of row marker and stopping at the BOR marker.
LEG
We will now work the cable, which is listed below for size S(M,L). One thing to note: the first time you work Row 1 you will pm and the following rows you will sm.
Note: I recommend highlighting your size.
Row 1: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), pm, k18(20, 22) to BOR
Row 2: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), sm, k18(20, 22) to BOR
Row 3-5: Rep Row 1
Row 6: Rep Row 2
Row 7: Rep Row 1
Row 8: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), sm, k18(20, 22) to BOR
Row 9-15: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), sm, k18(20, 22) to BOR
Row 16: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), sm, k18(20, 22) to BOR
Rows 17-22: Rep Rows 1-6 once more
Row 23: K3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern Row 7*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4) and stop at marker. You will begin the heel here on the back half of the stitches cast on.
HEEL FLAP
Switch to DPN’s to work the heel flap. Because you will be working on these next 18(20, 22) sts for the heel, you will leave the instep section alone until the entire heel is worked.
Row 1 (RS): *Sl1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1* Repeat across row.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl across row.
Repeat these two rows a total of 9(10, 11) times. You will end with a total of 18(20, 22) rows on your heel flap.
HEEL TURN
Row 1 (RS): *Sl1 purlwise with yarn in back, k9(10, 11), ssk, k1, turn
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front, p3, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn in back, k to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4 (WS): Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked. Do not slip the first st of the very last purl row, you will purl it.
You will end on a RS and have 10(12, 13) sts remaining on your needle.
GUSSET
When you begin knitting the gusset, you will pick up the cable pattern you worked on the leg at cable pattern row 8.
To set up the gusset, complete the following:
Small: K5, pm, k5(10 sts remaining)
Medium: K6, pm, k6(12 sts remaining)
Large: K6, pm, k5, k2tog (12 sts remaining)
PU 9(10, 11) sts along the side of the heel flap, PU the ladder from the row below and ktbl to reduce the gap. PM, k18(20, 22) in cable pattern Row 8, PM. Pick up the ladder from the row below and ktbl on this side of the instep, then PU 9(10, 11) sts along the other side of the heel flap. K across to the center back marker. This will be your BOR marker.
Note: As you do this step, you’ll switch back to your 9″ circular needles.
Begin decreasing by repeating the following 2 rows until you are back to the total st count of 36(40, 44).
Row 1: K to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k3(3, 4), p2(3, 3), *cable pattern*, p2(3, 3), k3(3, 4), sm, k1, ssk, k to center back marker, slip BOR marker.
Row 2: K to marker, sm, k3, p2, *cable pattern*, p2, k3, sm, k to beginning of round marker.
FOOT
Once you are done decreasing and at a st count of 36(40, 44) you will continue to k until the first marker, sm, k18(20, 22) in cable pattern, sm, k to beginning of the row until the sock measures 1.5″ less than the length of your gusset to toe.
Example: If your gusset to toe measures 7.5″ you will continue to k the foot for 6″ before beginning the toe.
TOE
As you decrease sts for the toe, you will now switch to DPN’s and remove all markers as you come to them. Arrange sts so that N1 has the first 9(10, 11) sts, N2 has the next 18(20, 22) sts, and N3 has the last 9(10, 11) sts of the row. We will rep the following 2 rows until you have a total of 16(20, 24) sts on all needles combined.
Row 1: N1: K to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. N2: K1, ssk, k until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. N3: K1, ssk, k to end of needle.
Row 2: K across all sts.
Rep rows 1 and 2 until you have 4(5, 6) sts on N1, 8(10, 12) sts on N2, and 4(5, 6) sts on N3.
K the next 4(5, 6) sts off of N1 onto N3 for a total of 8(10, 12) sts. You will now have only 2 DPNs with 16(20, 24) on all needles combined.
KITCHENER JOIN
You will now do the kitchener join to close the toe. You can find the video tutorial of this at: https://youtu.be/A7bjDZnKo0Q
Set up:
Purlwise through 1st st in front, leave on
Knitwise through 1st st in back, leave on
1: Front st knitwise, slip off
2: Next front st purlwise, leave on
3: Frist back st purlwise, slip off
4. Next back st knitwise, leave on
Rep 1-4 until all sts have been dropped.
Weave in ends from toe and cuff, cut tails, & enjoy the cozy warmth on your feet!
That’s all folks!
A tweedy, cable knit worsted weight cabin sock! I hope you enjoyed being shown the free worsted sock knitting pattern.
If you make your own Cocoa Cabin Socks I’d love to see it! Feel free to tag me on Instagram @thisyellowfarmhouse and #thisyellowfarmhouse.